The Surrender

HERE, in the new day's golden splendour — Headlands pushing their foreheads forward — Sweet is the surfer's glad surrender To the will of the wave, as it rushes shoreward. Nought in his ears but the breaker's thunder, Arrowing on through the surf he flies, Foam about him and clean sands under, Over him arching the radiant skies. Yielding himself as a toy to the ocean, Locked and mute in its fierce embraces, Thrilled and filled with the joy of motion, Limbs outstretched, through the swirl he races. Here, in the gold day's new-born splendour, Sea winds sighing in tree and cave, Sweet it is in a glad surrender Thus to yield to the will of the wave.